WELCOME HOMME

MA FASHION COLLECTION

ABOUT: my house

WHEN: 2023

WHERE: inside my head

IS: a dream

“It would take a house to be a man and vice versa a man would be defined by his house”.

A distorted place that I’m destroying and rebuilding.

01_From the front yard to the bedroom.
02_Feeling wrapped.
03_Distorted living.
04_Moodboard.
05_Sweet dreams are made of this.
06_Cozy at the end.

01_From the front yard to the bedroom.

FRONT-YARD, A LIVING WALL (Up-cycled lycra tights bought at Guerrisol by SDV with embroidered doilies. The idea of a frontyard comes useful in order to attract the observers and let them dream about the inside. Secondly, modern interior designers in lack of space but in need of nature often make use of living walls. Thirdly, to emphasize this idea of distortion, doilies overlaps and creeps their way as they were infesting plants).

CURTAIN SHIRT, (I felt in love with this old curtain that my family was using to cover some old furniture. After a wash it was soft (and clean) enough to create a 50’s inspired shirt. Damaged fringes as well all the holes were kept as details).

DUSTCOAT, A FUR CAPE (The contrast in a design is what make it successful. Is the case for this exaggerated (as well heavy) shearling coat. Is a reference to the old times, where we used to display and adorn trophy prey as blankets and duvets. The big pieces of leather have been strategically cutted in order to have as little waste as possible. The final piece was sewn by Atelier Sara Sara Pako).

Shearling cape pattern.
Shearling cape toile.
First fitting.
Cutting at AtelierSara.
Up-cycled curtain shirt.
Living wall.
Technical drawings.

02_Feeling wrapped.

WRAPPED, A CARPET SWEATER (Up-cycled, dyed, cutted and replaced sweaters. Up-cycled, dyed, cutted and replaced carpets. Dyed, cutted, replaced and brushed fringes. All coming up for an unexpected sweater. The motif of the sweater comes from a Bauhaus inspired painting).

MISMATCHED SHIRT, (I realized how hard it was to design and sew a nice shirt when I had to make it again and again for five times. Mismatched collar, hidden button closure and misaligned hem as construction detail. All in a soft pure cotton from Carnet).

CUT OUT CAPITONNÉ PANTS (Made out of a super 120’s wool gabardine from Heritage Weavers the cut-out motif takes inspiration from a capitonné sample that I took off from a vintage chair. Each hole has been finished with a cotton piping from Shindo).

Bauhaus.
Cut-out capitonné
First fitting.
Dyeing up-cycled sweaters.
Dyeing up-cycled carpets (in yellow).
And in browns too.
Nuova voce di elenco
Second fitting.
Piping.
Technical drawings.

03_Distorted living.

RI-TA, A CAPITONNÉ PUFFER JACKET (From a capitonné chair bought at Emmaüs Solidarité with the intention of revealing her inner beauty (and construction). I played with toiles and maquette in order to decide and define the right volumes, combinations of fabric and details. All the damask motif was laser cutted which gave an unexpected sense of wear and tear. Pink silk from Lelièvre Paris and grey pure linen from Carnet who gave a sense of comfort and elegance).

A DISTORTED TABLE CLOTH (As a designer I like to give my own interpretation. In this case for a vichy motif, which we often see used as table cloth in modest kitchens. The displaced print enhances the sense of distortion while fitting with the '50s inspired shirt).

TAILORED TRACKPANTS (I don’t usually work with jersey, flat and heavy fabrics fits me more, but this Spacer plat from Guigou was the best compromise for this embroidered tailored track pant).

First toile.
Sleeve maquette.
First fitting.
Laser-cutted all-over motif.
Placed ripping.
Everything in the right place.
Second fitting.
Pants details.
Table cloth distorted vichy.
Technical drawings.

04_Moodboard.

EMA, A SMOKED BLAZER (Smoking a blazer, to make it look older, aged, lived and loved, dirty and smelly but also unpredictable. This linen jacket was placed in a closed box and gently and slowly smoked by the use of 10 Marlboro gold cigarettes and a pump. The ripped sleeves reveals a second pair of arms but in a two tone velvet, which was laser cutted bringing surprise to the viewer. Missing bronze studs finishes the look).

MISMATCHED PRINTED SHIRT, (A second version of the shirt we previously saw but now with a contrasting print. The fabric in this case was a 100% organic popeline with a reactive print technique from Contrado ).

BORO LEATHER PANTS (I was really hesitant on finalizing this leather pants but luckily got convinced and helped on doing them. For 3 days I used the dremel to distress and soften leather’s leftover. Took each piece and tried to make a panel to cut out the pattern of a pants. The pattern then was used to place and define the stitching for each piece (by hand and by machine). The final piece was embroidered, assembled and sewn at Atelier Sara Sara Pako.

Ema.
Working on the vintage.
First fitting.
Re-do.
Second fitting.
Studs embellish.
Almost there.
Smoking effect.
Boro Sashiko construction.
Boro Sashiko seams placement.
Technical drawings.

05_Sweet dreams are made of this.

NOT SO SOFT PILLOW CASE (As the classic shirt, I reworked this piece many time. Achieving so essential and minimal shape was harder than I thought. A squared pillow case in the most modest cotton got rigid by using cornstarch and laser cutted to mimic an openwork).

EMA_SHORTS (From a 50’s inspired boxer this shorts features a double layer mixing Ratti (Carnet) chevron beaver angora wool and laser cutted cotton velour from the same company. As the tailored jacket, this short as been smoked to give an older look).

First fitting shorts.
Shorts constructions.
Shorts embellish
First fitting pillow case.
Draping.
Re-working the laser-cutted piece.
Black closure final piece.
Technical drawings.

06_Cozy at the end.

COMBED DAMASK (For my projects I always try to mix upcycling fabrics and materials with something new yet sustainable. Was the case of this Pilar from Jab Anstoetz Group mainly used for curtains which I combed to make it “mine” and really soft to create this oversized hoodie. Contemporary design with a modern aesthetic).

TAILORED TANKTOP (Most of the time I like to surprise (myself) the viewer. It’s the case of this trompe-l’œil ribbed tanktop in ribbed cotton velour from Carnet).

BAUHAUS PANTS (Whit the same Bauhaus motif we previously saw and with the same pattern of the cut-out gabardine pants trouser, this pants in a cotton drill with a reactive print technique comes useful to finish the look).